Dhaka

Dhaka

Dhaka is Bangladesh's capital and largest city, and the hub of its intercity bus network. Long-distance coaches use terminals and counters across the city, including Gabtoli, Sayedabad and Mohakhali, so check your ticket for the exact drop-off point.

Local food to try

  • Kacchi biryani

    Dhaka

    Mutton and rice layered raw and slow-cooked together in a sealed pot — Old Dhaka’s signature dish, served with borhani.

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    Bakarkhani

    Dhaka

    A crisp, layered flatbread baked in clay ovens in Old Dhaka; eaten with tea.

  • Morog polao

    Dhaka

    Fragrant rice cooked with chicken, a wedding and festival favourite.

  • Fuchka and chotpoti

    Dhaka

    The city’s favourite street snacks: crisp shells filled with spiced chickpeas and tamarind water, and a warm, tangy chickpea bowl.

  • Borhani and lassi

    Dhaka

    Spiced yoghurt drink with biryani, and sweet lassi from Old Dhaka’s sweet shops.

Where to eat

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    Nazira Bazar and Bangshal

    Old Dhaka

    The heart of Old Dhaka food: biryani houses such as Haji Biryani (since 1939), kebab stalls and sweet shops. Go hungry, and go at lunchtime.

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    Chawkbazar

    Old Dhaka

    Busy wholesale lanes with food all year, and the city’s famous iftar market in Ramadan.

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    Dhanmondi and Gulshan

    Central and north Dhaka

    Restaurants of every kind — Bangladeshi, Indian, Thai, Chinese and cafés — for a sit-down meal.

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    TSC and Dhanmondi Lake

    University area, Dhanmondi

    Evening tea stalls and street food — fuchka, chotpoti, jhalmuri — where students and families gather.

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Where to stay

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    Gulshan and Banani

    North Dhaka

    International and upscale hotels, embassies and the best restaurants; closest to the airport of the central areas.

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    Dhanmondi and Panthapath

    Central Dhaka

    Mid-range hotels in the middle of the city, handy for both Old Dhaka and Gulshan.

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    Motijheel and Paltan

    Central Dhaka

    Budget hotels near Kamalapur station and many bus counters; good for an early departure.

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    Uttara

    Near the airport

    Hotels minutes from the airport, on the metro line.

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Culture

Dhaka has been a capital for four centuries, and Old Dhaka still shows it: Mughal forts and mosques, merchant houses and lanes named after the trades that filled them.

  • Pohela Boishakh (Bengali New Year, 14 April) begins with songs under the banyan at Ramna and the Mangal Shobhajatra procession from the Faculty of Fine Arts.
  • 21 February, International Mother Language Day, is marked at the Central Shaheed Minar.
  • Shakrain, the kite festival, fills Old Dhaka’s rooftops in mid-January.
  • In Ramadan, Chawkbazar’s iftar market is one of the city’s oldest food traditions.
  • Look out for rickshaw art: the hand-painted panels on the city’s rickshaws are a craft of their own.

History

Dhaka grew up on the north bank of the Buriganga, where river trade had drawn markets and weavers long before it became a capital. In 1610 the Mughal governor Islam Khan made it the capital of Bengal and named it Jahangirnagar, after the emperor. For the next century it was one of the great cities of the subcontinent: its fine muslin was traded far beyond Bengal, and the Mughals left forts, mosques and caravanserais — Lalbagh Fort, begun in 1678 and never finished, and the Bara Katra among them.

When the provincial capital moved to Murshidabad in the early eighteenth century, Dhaka declined, and under British rule it became a district town. It rose again in the twentieth century: capital of the short-lived province of Eastern Bengal and Assam from 1905 to 1911, home of the University of Dhaka from 1921, and in 1947 the capital of East Bengal.

The city was at the centre of the Language Movement of 1952, remembered every 21 February at the Shaheed Minar, and of the struggle that led to independence in 1971. Since then it has been the capital of Bangladesh.

Today Dhaka is one of the most crowded cities in the world, and its two faces sit side by side: the narrow lanes, river ghats and Mughal buildings of Old Dhaka in the south, and the newer city of offices, universities and the metro rail stretching north.

Plan your visit

Best time to visit

October to March

How to get there

Dhaka is the hub of the country’s intercity buses: coaches arrive from every division at terminals and counters across the city, including Gabtoli, Sayedabad and Mohakhali. Check your ticket for the exact drop-off point.

Trains arrive at Kamalapur and Airport stations, and Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport has domestic flights from the main cities.

Getting around

  • Metro rail (MRT Line 6) runs from Uttara to Motijheel, through Mirpur, Agargaon, Farmgate, Karwan Bazar, Shahbag and Dhaka University — the fastest way north to south.
  • Ride-hailing apps offer cars and motorbikes across the city.
  • CNG auto-rickshaws are everywhere; agree the fare before you get in.
  • Rickshaws are the way into Old Dhaka’s narrow lanes.
  • Traffic is heavy at rush hour: allow extra time, or travel early in the day and on Fridays.

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