Chattogram

Chattogram

Chattogram is Bangladesh's main port and second-largest city, and the gateway to the Chittagong Hill Tracts. Travellers come for business, for Patenga beach and as a stop on the way to the hills.

Local food to try

  • Mezbani beef

    Chattogram

    Beef slow-cooked with a dark, rich spice blend, as served at a mezban. The dish Chattogram is proudest of.

  • Kala bhuna

    Chattogram

    Beef fried slowly with spices until almost black — dry, deep and very good with paratha.

  • Shutki (dried fish)

    Chattogram

    Sun-dried sea fish, cooked as curry or mashed into bhorta. The coast dries it by the tonne.

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    Durus kura

    Chattogram

    A whole chicken cooked in a spiced gravy, a Chatgaiya favourite for guests.

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    Bela biscuit

    Chattogram

    A hard, dry biscuit baked in Chattogram for generations; dipped in tea.

Where to eat

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    GEC Circle and Nasirabad

    Chattogram city

    The city’s main restaurant district, from local rice-and-curry houses to cafés.

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    Mezbani restaurants

    Across the city

    Restaurants that serve mezbani beef every day, so you need not wait for a feast. Ask locally for the current favourite.

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    Agrabad

    Chattogram city

    The business district, with hotel restaurants and Chinese and Thai places.

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    Patenga beach stalls

    Patenga

    Fried fish, crab and snacks by the water at sunset.

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Where to stay

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    Agrabad

    Chattogram city

    Business hotels near the port and the banks; on the way to Patenga.

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    GEC and Nasirabad

    Chattogram city

    Mid-range hotels near the restaurants and the bus counters.

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    Station Road

    Chattogram city

    Budget hotels by the railway station.

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    Rangamati and Bandarban

    Chittagong Hill Tracts

    Stay a night in the hills for Kaptai Lake or Nilgiri: hotels in town and resorts with views.

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Culture

The port city has its own language — Chatgaiya, which other Bangladeshis find hard to follow — and its own feast.

  • Mezban: a community feast of beef cooked in great pots, held for weddings, memorials and celebrations; everyone is fed.
  • Jabbarer Boli Khela: a traditional wrestling contest at Laldighi every Boishakh, over a century old, with a fair around it.
  • Maizbhandari songs, devotional music from the Sufi shrine at Maizbhandar in Fatikchhari.
  • The hills to the east are home to the Chakma, Marma, Tripura and other indigenous peoples, with their own festivals, crafts and Buddhist temples.

History

Chattogram sits where the Karnaphuli river meets the Bay of Bengal, and for as long as there are records it has been a port. Arab and Persian traders knew it, the Chinese admiral Zheng He’s fleets called in the fifteenth century, and the Portuguese, who settled here in the sixteenth, called it Porto Grande — the great port. For centuries the town changed hands between the sultans of Bengal, the kings of Tripura and the kingdom of Arakan.

In 1666 a Mughal army under Shaista Khan’s son took Chattogram from Arakan and renamed it Islamabad. The East India Company gained it in 1760, and in the late nineteenth century the Assam Bengal Railway linked the port to the tea gardens of Assam, making it the main outlet for the region’s trade.

In 1930 Surya Sen and his followers raided the British armoury here, one of the boldest acts of the anti-colonial struggle, and in the Second World War the city was a base for the Burma campaign; the war cemetery is a reminder of those years.

Today Chattogram is Bangladesh’s second city and its main seaport. Hills run right into the city, the shrines of Bayazid Bostami and Shah Amanat draw pilgrims, and the beaches, hill tracts and Cox’s Bazar all lie within a few hours’ journey.

Plan your visit

Best time to visit

November to February

How to get there

Buses from Dhaka take about 5–7 hours on the Dhaka–Chattogram highway, with day and night departures; coaches stop at counters around Dampara, GEC and Oxygen. Trains run from Dhaka to Chattogram station, and there are domestic flights to Shah Amanat International Airport.

Getting around

  • CNG auto-rickshaws go everywhere; agree the fare first.
  • Ride-hailing apps work across the city.
  • Rickshaws for short hops; tempos and legunas run fixed routes.
  • For Sitakunda and Mirsharai, take buses up the highway; for Rangamati and Bandarban, buses leave from the city’s terminals.

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